Thursday, 12 September 2013

Douglas

Moghrey mie - Mooinjer-Veggey . . . Good morning - Little People!

Wednesday 11 September 2013

I don't remember how the subject came up in conversation but we decided to do this walk after hearing that Trevor had never visited the "real" fairy bridge. 

We arranged to meet on Wednesday and the forecast was quite promising when we made the decision but it deteriorated daily.  On Tuesday I bought a small folding umbrella - hoping to protect my camera from the predicted rain.  On Wednesday morning the forecast from Ronaldsway read:
Wednesday, 11 September 2013
Weather: Spells of rain heavy at times through the middle of the day dying out for a while this evening.
Wind: NW backing W 10-15 this morning then veering NW for a time this evening and overnight before backing SW by this time tomorrow.
Visibility: Good, becoming moderate or poor in rain or drizzle.
Temperature: Min. Air 12°C and Max. Air 15°C
Rainfall (mm): 5-10
Comments: Heavy rain.

It didn't bode well when there were a few drops of rain before we even left the glen.  We allowed an hour for the journey which was a good idea because morning rush hour traffic in Douglas is always a bit of shock for us country dwellers from the north of the Island.  Dorothy and Trevor were already waiting at the Pigeon Stream parking area on Marine Drive when we arrived.  We  walked along the road and through the old arches that mark the start of the tramway which used to run along the cliffs to Port Soderick from Douglas.  The tramway opened on 16 July 1896 and closed in 1939.   After the war it was sold to the Manx government and was converted to a roadway in 1956.  The new road only remained open to traffic for twenty years before part of it was closed to traffic on safety grounds.

Some interesting notices about the wildlife in the area had been erected near the arches since we last walked along the road four years ago and we stopped to read them.



The road continues past the old Douglas Head Hotel which has been converted into apartments, a restaurant which has been converted into offices . . . and the Manx Radio building, a square box which is unlikely to win any design awards - unless there is an award for the most boring building.   We stopped to photograph the view of Douglas.  Behind the entrance to the harbour in the foreground is the Tower of Refuge which was built on Conister Rock in 1832.  
 
Sir William Hillary, who settled on the Isle of Man in 1808 and lived at Fort Anne on Douglas Head, had a good view of the many wrecks in Douglas Bay and "In around 1824 he conceived the concept of a life boat service manned by a trained crew. The idea was new, but soon prompted the creation of the Royal National Lifeboat Institution."   A few years later he realised that a place was needed for sailors to wait for rescue in Douglas Bay and the Tower of Refuge was built.  There is a statue of Sir William on the hillside where I took the next photo. 
 
As you can see, the clouds were ominous but it wasn't quite raining.



We turned off the road and Tim took this photo as we walked down the steps to the South Quay and the new Millennium bridge which replaced an earlier pedestrian bridge.  We didn't cross the bridge because our route led upstream along the south side of the river.



I liked the contrast between this modern anchor . . . and the old buildings across the river . . . and the pretty hanging baskets of flowers.



A closer view of the buildings on the North Quay shows the hotch-potch of architectural styles - which will no doubt be added to by the new building being erected.  This is the oldest part of Douglas but none of the earliest buildings have survived because the whole of area of "old Douglas" was demolished in the 1930's.

 
 
We continued upstream leaving the urban landscape and walked along the Old Castletown Road until we reach the entrance to The Nunnery footpath.  I believe that The Nunnery is one of the most impressive buildings on the Island but the house is not visible from the footpath.  It is said to be the site of a 12th century nunnery which was closed during the 1540 dissolution ordered by Henry V111.  It later became the home of the Heywood family.  One member of the family, Peter Heywood, was accused of being involved in the mutiny on the Bounty and was condemned to death but was subsequently pardoned. 
 
Later The Nunnery was purchased by John Taubman.  The house was rebuilt either at the end of the 18th century or the beginning of the 19th century, accounts differ, and remained a family home with various owners until the end of the twentieth century when it was purchased by the Isle of Man Business School.   The only structure in the grounds that we could see from the path is a memorial to Thomas Leigh Goldie, Lt Colonel of the 57th regiment, who fell in the Battle of Inkerman (Crimea) 5 November 1854.  The memorial was originally topped by an impressive obelisk which was destroyed by a falling tree in the 1970's.  



This is an engraving of the house and the original memorial dating from the 1850's.



We continued along the pleasantly wooded path running between The Nunnery grounds and the river.  The leaves on a horse chestnut were starting to change colour - a sign of the end of summer.
 
It was very peaceful but there was quite a row about the use of this footpath in the past.  The following extracts are from a research blog by David J. Radcliffe MA  http://manxresearch.wordpress.com/2012/11/14/the-nunnery-footpath-between-douglas-and-old-kirk-braddan/     "The Nunnery footpath itself became a problem to the owners of The Nunnery in the 1830s/1840s when walkers were redirected around to the new western driveway. However by the 1870s, when the numbers of tourists to the Island surpassed the 100,000 per annum mark, most of whom stayed in Douglas, the main problems would have been firstly the sheer amount of pedestrian traffic using the route on Sundays in order to get to Kirk Braddan (the nearest church), and secondly, the promenaders who walked that way on fine summer evenings, and no doubt created a lot of noise."
 
There were even songs written about the dispute with Sir John Senhouse Goldie-Taubman, Speaker of the House of Keys and proprietor of the Nunnery  . . . and one song ended:
 
Now I think that if his title
Has been won by deeds like that,
In the very next big battle
He should be shot down flat,
For a man that will rob his townsmen
Of their favourite little stroll.
I think it very nearly time
                                                             That his bell began to stroll.    

   

The Nunnery footpath came to an abrupt end and our route turned across an industrial estate and a busy road.  I was rather confused because I had no recollection of this part of the route.  I wondered whether my memory was defective until we returned home and I found out that the industrial estate had only been built recently and I haven't walked along this path since the puppies were born over 13 years ago.  So I didn't forget it - it just wasn't there last time I hiked that route.  Luckily there was a footpath sign across the road and we picked up the route which followed the Middle River along the edge of the Pulrose Golf Course.
 
Then we turned up the road until we reached another footpath leading to Oakhill.  This is the footpath leading to the "real" fairy bridge. 
 
Now the Fairy Bridge that everyone knows is situated on a main road, the New Castletown Road, and is pointed out to all the tourists driving between Douglas and the airport in the south.  Visitors are told that it is customary to greet the fairies when passing the bridge.  There is even an urban myth that taxi drivers will refuse to pass the bridge unless their passengers say "Good morning Fairies!"   But this is not true - although superstitious locals might mutter a greeting.  Anyway, according to Miss S. Morrison, "A good Manxman does not speak of fairies — the word ferish, a corruption of the English, did not exist in the Island 200 years ago.   He talks of the Little People, or Mooinjer-Veggey or, in a more familiar mood, of "Themselves," Guillyn Veggey, or " Lil Fellas." In contradistinction to mortals, he calls them Middle World Men, for they are believed to dwell in a world of their own, being neither good enough for Heaven nor bad enough for Hell."  I wonder whether I am a "Middle World" person.  The description sounds rather appropriate.
 
But there is another fairy bridge which is considered to be the "real" one because it is marked on the old ordnance survey maps.  It is a mysterious bridge because there is no longer a road crossing it.  The route must have been diverted many years ago and the little bridge across the Middle River sits on its own amongst the trees.  The new river crossing is a ford and a footbridge but there is a narrow path worn along the bank of the river to the old bridge which is about twenty yards upstream.  

 

The side of the fairy bridge facing the footpath was decorated with various notes, tat and items left by superstitious visitors who must have been hoping their offerings would bring them good fortune.  There was even a little decorative metal structure with the message "For the fairies to rest . . . From Julie-Lynn".  It was surrounded by scallop shells.  I didn't know that fairies liked scallop shells.  One learns something new every day.  I walked further upstream and took a photo of the bridge from the other side.  I preferred the view without the embellishments.

  

We continued up the footpath until we reached a junction of four paths where we turned left towards the Old Castletown Road.  After a short walk down the road we reached another footpath leading to the coast.  We passed a few signs.  The first one urged us not to feed the donkeys and the next one, at the end of the donkey field, asked us to close the gate in order to keep the sheep out.  Then it was fairly easy to follow the railway line until we reached the end of the path.  Or it would have been if we hadn't turned off slightly too soon and ended up climbing over a barbed wire fence.  We joined the road near the top of the steps down to Port Soderick but decided to head back to the cars.  We had kept remarkably dry considering the forecast but there were the occasional few drops of light rain and we didn't know how long our luck would last.
 
The tide was out and Tim took this photo of the lovely bay at Keristal.  I noticed a zig-zag path from the road down to the shore at the far end of the bay.  I took a photo of it and commented to Trevor that the photo would remind me to come back in future and walk down to the beach.  He knew the path well and said that we could go down before returning to the cars if we liked.  So we turned off and walked down to the shore. 



While we were on the beach, Trevor told us about a man who once spent a year camping in a tent on the rocks jutting out into the sea below the cliffs.  I asked him to point out the camping site and he climbed up to show me.  He said there was another route up to the top so we all followed him.



It was rough going and steep.  When Trevor suggested that I walked across these sloping rocks to the little round platform in the centre of the photo where the tent was pitched, and which looked hardly big enough for a small tent, I decided that I had a good enough view from the so-called path . . . that it was threatening to rain any minute . . . and last, but not least, I don't like heights.

 
  
So I struggled up towards the road after Trevor who must be related to a mountain goat . . .  and Tim very kindly took this rather unflattering photo of my endeavours.



The rest of the route was easy . . . along Marine Drive.  The rain was still light but I was nervous about using the camera too often although I took a photo to illustrate the reason for the road being closed.  The layers of slate are twisted and fractured  and the area is prone to falling rocks and landslips.

   

I think the Mooinjer-Veggey must have liked us.  After an almost dry walk, the heavy rain arrived as soon as we were safely back in the cars - and then it belted down!                           

No comments:

Post a Comment